Cycling Through Tulip Fields in the Netherlands: Our 5-Day Self-Guided Bike Tour
- tgandco2
- 2 days ago
- 8 min read
This is my sixth post about our amazing five-week adventure in Norway and the Netherlands. You can find the other posts here:
5 Weeks in Norway and the Netherlands: Northern Lights, Fjords, Tulips & More
Northern Lights in Tromsø, Norway: Amazing When You See Them, But Weather Changes Everything
Three Weeks in Norway: Fjords, Mountains, Musk Oxen, and Unforgettable Hikes
Three Weeks in Norway: Honest Reviews of Hotels, Restaurants, Tours & Unforgettable Experiences
Two Weeks in the Netherlands: Tulips, Amsterdam, Rotterdam, Utrecht & an Amazing Bike Tour
Honest Reviews of Hotels, Restaurants, Museums and Attractions in the Netherlands
Teresa and I had never done a multi-day cycling tour before. We have completed two major multi-day hikes: the Camino de Santiago, a gruelling 33-day journey, and the Kumano Kodo, a challenging five-day trek through the mountains of Japan. I also hiked Machu Picchu, though Teresa wisely sat that one out. Beyond that, we've done countless day hikes, cycling excursions, and enough walking to wear out several pairs of shoes.
When planning our trip to Norway and the Netherlands, there were two experiences we were especially hoping for: seeing the Northern Lights in Tromsø in March and cycling through the tulip fields of the Netherlands in April. Both depend heavily on Mother Nature cooperating.
While Tromsø is one of the best places in the world to see the Northern Lights, clear skies are essential. If the weather doesn't cooperate, you're out of luck. We were incredibly fortunate to witness the lights in all their glory on two consecutive nights. The tulips are equally unpredictable. Bloom times vary from year to year, and while our bike tour company felt our chosen dates were ideal, there are never any guarantees. Once again, luck was on our side, and we arrived just as the fields exploded into vibrant colour.
Teresa is not really a cyclist, which makes this next point important for anyone considering a bike tour in the Netherlands. If you're not an experienced rider, this is arguably the perfect place in the world to cycle. The country is remarkably flat, meaning anyone in reasonable physical condition can comfortably ride without an e-bike. Equally important, much of the cycling infrastructure is completely separated from road traffic. Not only is this safer, but it also makes cycling far less intimidating for beginners.
One thing I would note, however, is that there is a huge difference between cycling through the Dutch countryside and cycling in Amsterdam or Rotterdam. Just as I wouldn't recommend renting a car and driving through downtown Rome or Tokyo, I would strongly caution inexperienced cyclists about riding in central Amsterdam. The volume of bikes is astonishing. Even walking can be hazardous if you're not constantly watching for cyclists coming from every direction.
Once we decided on a cycling tour, we had another important choice to make. We wanted a self-guided experience. Teresa and I generally avoid organized tours, preferring the freedom to explore at our own pace and change plans when something interesting catches our attention.
That said, we wanted an experienced company to design the route, handle the logistics, arrange accommodations, and transfer our luggage. After contacting several companies, I quickly settled on Holland Bike Tours. Edda, one of their travel advisors, was friendly, knowledgeable, and incredibly patient with my many emails and constantly evolving requests.
Holland Bike Tours is a second-generation family-owned business that specializes exclusively in cycling tours throughout the Netherlands. While they certainly build on routes they've developed over many years, they continually update them and make the experience feel highly personalized. We felt like our tour had been designed specifically for us.
We were very fortunate to find them.
With our route finalized and our dates set, we were ready to go.
We arrived in Haarlem to pick up our bikes, drop off our luggage, and receive our orientation. Before diving into the daily itinerary, I should mention one thing. The Dutch countryside is beautiful throughout the warmer months, and I'm sure a cycling tour would be enjoyable at any time. However, if your schedule allows it, I would absolutely plan your trip during tulip season. Seeing the fields in bloom is a once-a-year experience, and it is spectacular.
With that introduction, here's an overview of what became the highlight of our time in the Netherlands.
Haarlem to Vogelenzang via JUB – 37 km
We arrived at the Holland Bike Tours office at 9:30 a.m. for our bike fitting and orientation. Although I'm far from a cycling expert, my immediate impression was that the bikes were excellent. That opinion was reinforced several times during the trip when other cyclists commented on their quality.
The orientation was thorough, relaxed, and never rushed. Our personalized route was loaded into the Ride with GPS app, which provided turn-by-turn navigation, hotel information, and recommendations for attractions along the route. With our phones mounted on the handlebars and voice navigation guiding us, following the route was simple and stress-free.
We still managed to get lost a couple of times, but getting back on track was easy.
The best news? You don't have to wait long to see tulips.
The fields begin almost immediately between Haarlem and Leiden. Words really don't do them justice. Every turn reveals another explosion of colour. Before long, you find yourself stopping every few minutes to take another photo, stare in amazement, and wonder if the next field could possibly be even more beautiful than the last.
It was everything we had hoped for, and we experienced it on our very first day.
As a bonus, we were able to stop at JUB Holland during preparations for the famous Flower Parade. Volunteers spend days decorating enormous floats entirely with flowers before they make their way through the region in a spectacular parade.
Although our schedule didn't allow us to see the parade itself, watching the floats being assembled was fascinating. In some ways, I think it may have been even more interesting than the parade. Holland Bike Tours thoughtfully adjusted our route to ensure we could stop and experience it.
It's remarkable how much beauty was packed into a single 37-kilometre ride.
Our accommodation for the evening was Hotel De Vogelensangh. Calling it a hotel almost feels inaccurate. It's really a wonderful restaurant with three guest rooms attached. Our room was spacious, stylish, and extremely comfortable.
The weather was perfect, so Teresa and I enjoyed a beer on the patio before dinner. While dinner was good, breakfast the next morning was outstanding. Overall, it was a wonderful stay.
What a way to start a cycling tour.
Vogelenzang to Leiden – 38 km
After a delicious breakfast, we headed to Keukenhof Gardens.
Often called the Garden of Europe, Keukenhof is one of the world's largest flower gardens. Covering 32 hectares and showcasing approximately seven million bulbs each year, it is absolutely breathtaking.
I had read that it would be crowded with tourists, and it certainly was. I had also read that it was worth visiting despite the crowds, and that proved equally true.
The gardens are stunning and, in my opinion, an absolute must-see during tulip season.
After leaving Keukenhof, we continued toward Leiden, enjoying more beautiful countryside and, of course, more tulip fields. I don't want this to sound routine because it never became routine. Every field seemed unique, and every stop felt worthwhile. Seeing so many tulips in bloom is one of those travel experiences that stays with you long after you return home.
Our accommodation in Leiden was the Tulip Inn. It felt like a typical chain hotel—comfortable, clean, and functional. The rooms were nice, the bar was welcoming (especially since they gave us complimentary drinks), and breakfast was excellent.
Dinner was at Crabbetje, a beautiful seafood restaurant with exceptional food and first-rate service. Once again, we experienced Dutch dining at its best: relaxed, unhurried, and focused on enjoying the entire experience rather than simply finishing a meal. Excellent.
Leiden Loop – 35 km
This was a more relaxed cycling day since we weren't changing hotels. The route formed a loop through the countryside, featuring canals, farmland, charming villages, and a couple of unique ferry crossings.
There were fewer tulips, but the slower pace allowed us to appreciate a different side of the Netherlands. It turned out to be a fun day.
Dinner was at De Waag, a casual restaurant located in a beautiful historic building. Before dinner, we spent time wandering through Leiden, which is a lovely city to explore on foot. It was a perfect way to spend the afternoon and evening.
Leiden to Noorden – 36 km
After another excellent breakfast, we set off on our second-last day of cycling.
The route offered a perfect mix of canals, windmills, green countryside, and even a few more tulip fields. It was another memorable day on the bike.
Our hotel was Hotel de Watergeus, which may have been the most beautiful hotel of the entire trip. (Although Hotel De Vogelensangh deserves an honourable mention.)
Unfortunately, the hotel's renowned restaurant was closed on Sundays, which happened to be the night of our stay.
Amazingly, we were the only guests staying there. After checking us in, the manager told us to help ourselves to a beer from the fridge and relax on the dock overlooking the peat lake.
No charge.
Just incredible hospitality.
We spent the evening enjoying the view, taking photos, and soaking in the peaceful surroundings. It was one of those unexpected travel moments that becomes a favourite memory.
Since the hotel restaurant was closed, we had dinner at Bistrobar 't Leeuwtje. The food and service were excellent. The restaurant was packed, and our table location was a little unusual, sitting partially in an aisle, but it didn't diminish the experience.
Noorden to Haarlem – 43 km
Our final day of cycling featured more beautiful Dutch countryside, canals, villages, and scenic paths. If this sounds repetitive, I apologize. It certainly didn't feel repetitive while we were riding it.
Eventually, we returned to the Holland Bike Tours office and handed back our bikes.
For our final night in the Netherlands, we stayed at Boutiquehotel Staats in Haarlem.
If I ever need proof that it's worth spending extra time researching accommodations, this hotel is it.
Located in a beautifully restored former school building, the hotel is absolutely stunning.
Our room was fantastic, the staff were wonderful, and breakfast was delicious.
It was the perfect place to spend the final night of an unforgettable trip.
Dinner was at Jopenkerk Haarlem, a brewery and restaurant housed inside a former church. It was good, though not spectacular. To be fair, after several weeks of exceptional dining experiences, our standards may have become a little unrealistic.
Overall, it was a pleasant way to end the evening.
That concludes our five-day self-guided cycling tour through the Netherlands.
As I mentioned at the beginning, it was the highlight of our time in the country. The combination of tulip fields, charming towns, beautiful countryside, excellent cycling infrastructure, and outstanding hospitality made it a truly unforgettable experience.
If you've ever considered a cycling vacation, particularly if you're not an experienced cyclist, I can't think of a better place to start than the Netherlands.
As always, feel free to send me any questions or comments at thethirdperiod.ca@gmail.com.
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